Grab Rails

Instead of toe rails for the cabin top I decided to make grab rails.

In addition to the added hand hold security, grab rails will enhance the look of the boat and provide a place to tie off fenders.

The shape is drawn onto a piece of hoop pine about 1m in length. The port and starboard sections are drawn butted up to each other by their bases or feet. This will reduce shaping and time.

 All up there are six feet evenly distributed over the length of the rail.

Ten 54mm diam holes are drilled on the center line between the two sections. This will form the curve from the feet up to the rail. 

Now all the holes are drilled the double section is cut from the stock plank with a circular saw.

Using a jig saw I cut the two sections evenly down the center. Note the angle of the cut will correspond to the angle on the cabin top this ensures the rail sits vertical and will not foul on the side shrouds.

I let the jig saw cool down a bit and then removed the sections between each foot, now the rails are starting to take shape.

The pieces are put through a thicknesser and milled down to 18mm thick. I hope this thickness will allow the timber to bend around the cabin top. If not, I will steam the sections.

 Here are the rough-cut outs of the two sections.

I placed a 1m long straight edge the same length as the grab rail on the deck top. If you zoom in on this pic you can see the fore & aft end of the straight edge is directly over the sheer clamp. A measurement is taken from the center of the straight edge and the center of the sheer clamp which was 19mm. 

Now it's time to steam the grab rails. here is my homemade steamer. A pot of boiling water sending steam into a plastic pipe (works a treat). The timber was steamed for 60 mins.

The steamed grab rails were pulled into place on a jig. The wedges push the ends into place.

Here are both grab rails pulled into shape on the jig and secured in place until the timber dries.

 The grab rail install required considerable measuring and precise angled drilling to ensure the screws bed into the sheer rail.

 

I started on the aft leg of the SB rail and worked my way forward. The last section required a ratchet strap to pull it into position.

Next the port rail. This pic shows the curve of the rail. It is also important to ensure the rail sits vertical to prevent the shrouds fouling or rubbing on the rail. If the shrouds or joining shackle foul on the rail I can add timber shim under the chainplate.

After all this work the rails will have to be removed to glass the cabin deck.

BUT (yes there is always a BUT) Before I remove the rail, I will shape a blue gum strip to laminate on top of the grab rail. "Showy"

The blue gum strip will cover the screw holes and follow the theme. The strip will be glued and clamped on at a later date. 

The edges are routed round, and after a good sanding a diluted mix of epoxy brushed on.

Note the exit of the screw holes on the feet of the rails which were drilled at an angle to ensure the screws secure to the sheer clamps.

After glassing the cabin top it was time to screw and glue the handrails permanently in place.

The screws securing the handrails go through the cabin top and into the sheer clamps. I will leave these screws in place to provide additional strength.

The blue gum top strip is cut to length, edges routed round and then glued and clamped in place over the screw holes.

After removing the clamps, the entire section is cleaned up and sanded to a nice smooth finish.