Lower Hull Preparation

 Finally, it's time to prepare the lower hull and sides before glassing.

The first job while the boat is upside down is to sand the underside of the rub rails.

 This was no easy task due to my decision to build the rub rails from six laminated strips consisting of red gum hardwood and hoop pine. (see 10/10/2024 "Rub Rails" post)

Time to raise some saw dust and despite being connected to a vacuum I certainly produced a lot of dust.

 After a couple of hours pushing the belt sander and breaking three 80 grit belts I managed to clean up the rub rail undersides.

 

I then spent the next hour sanding off all the epoxy blobs that flowed through some of the joins like stalactites.

I also needed to smooth the hull bottom to keel section in preparation to allow a smooth fillet.

It's been a while but time to mix up some epoxy filler.

Time to fill all the stitch holes and voids.

I used Q‑Cell which is made from hollow glass or ceramic microspheres. When mixed into resin, it:

• Adds bulk without significant added weight.

• Improves workability and flow

• Provides reasonable compressive strength

And most importanly:

• Is easy to sand once cured.

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Flipping Day

As discussed in Aprils post the boat was loaded on the trailer and relocated to a new workshop.  Now it was finally time to take it off the trailer and flip it upside down.

So, I selected a date and made a few calls to my mates for help with a flipping party.

So, with 6 lifters, 1 photographer, and 1 supervisor we positioned ourselves in preparation to lift off the trailer.

You may have noticed I built 2 cradles, 1 forward and 1 aft on top of the boat that will allow the boat to sit level and at a good height from the ground when flipped. The forward cradle was screwed and bolted to BH 2 while the aft cradle was screwed directly to the seat back top.

We slowly slid the boat out of the keel cradle....... 

.......and onto a grassy patch on the ground.

2 old car tyres are placed under the starboard hull sides.

Then up we go, with the boat held on its side we relocated lifters to the opposite side.

We slowly lowered..........

........until the boat sat on its new cradles.

We then walked the boat into the workshop and........

.........placed it down.

Thanks, so much guys for your help, now it's time for cake and coffee.

I spent a bit of time levelling the boat both forward, aft and athwartships.

So, a word of advice to future builders, while we manage to flip the boat with 6 helpers, I think 8 would make it much easier.

So I will make a couple of extra calls when flipping her back.

Time to Move, Challenges & Adventures

 Well life is full of challenges and adventures. The next adventure for my wife and I involved a move.

I must admit and apologize for the lack of content posted recently. Unfortunately, my time has had to be shared with other priorities.

After finishing the trailer, I hitched up and relocated my PocketShip to a new workshop.

So here she is loaded up on the trailer ready for a new home.

I didn't realise how much gear, equipment and tools I had to move.

But I managed to relocate and set up the new workshop in preparation to complete the last few projects.

I look forward to posting my future progress.

Cheers Terry

Trailer

 

I was fortunate enough to find a secondhand trailer the perfect size to fit my PocketShip.

 It requires a bit of work including a few modifications & additions, some minor surface rust removal, bearing service (or replacement) and a paint job, nothing like another project.

I made a list of the jobs:

1. Strip all the old rollers, stabilizers and mudguards.
2. Grind off surface rust and treat areas with "Feronite" (a rust converter and primer).
3. Service and/or replace bearings.
4. Build the keel cradle, side stabilizers and install a rear roller.
5. Install removable light bar.
6. Install new mudguards.
7. Paint trailer.
8. I'll leave the winch and forward support installation until the boat is on. Plus, any other tie down supports.

I started by placing the trailer next to the boat (while it was upright in its cradle) This allowed me to firstly work out the keel cradle location and size and secondly ensure the boat was positioned far enough aft so that the bowsprit won't hit the car when trailing.

Let's kick off with making the "Trough" for the keel to slide into.

 

I purchased three lengths of hardwood decking timber 20mm x 95mm x 3200mm long and milled the lower piece down to 75mm wide.

The 3 pieces are glued and screwed together to form the box section for the keel.

The bottom of the cradle receives a coat of resin a fillet and a layer of biaxial glass for strength.

While waiting for the epoxy to cure on the cradle I started removing the old rollers and brackets from the trailer. Some parts were so old and rusty they had to be cut off with an angle grinder.

With the wheels, axle, suspension and tilt mechanism removed I set about removing the flaky rust and wire buffed and sanded the complete trailer. Holes for securing the cradle and mudguards are drilled and trial fitted.

 I decided to secure the cradle in two ways, firstly I bolted the fore and aft ends directly into the trailer beams and secondly, I screwed metal "U" shaped straps under the beam and into each side of the cradle and the beam.

 

The rusty sections were treated with a rust converter called "Feronite" in preparation for priming and painting the final coat.  

 

Due to inclement weather halting painting, I decided to hit the shops for the following:

Axle bearing kits, suspension bushes and bolts, axle "U" bolts and various high-tension nuts & bolts.

I also purchased "Killrust" primers and paints.

I rolled and brushed the primer on the majority of the trailer and used the aerosol spray can for the nooks and crannies I couldn't access with a brush.

I flipped the trailer over and painted the underside first. I decided to use a gloss enamel white paint called "Killrust". I used a roller for the large flat areas and a brush for the nooks and crannies. It will require two coats.

  

While waiting for the first coat of white to dry I sprayed the first coat of black onto the springs, axle and other suspension fittings.

I also painted the forward trailer bar and tow coupling.

The second coat is applied to sections of the underside.

Time to install all the suspension components and axle.

New polyurethane suspension bushes are hammered into the springs.

With the springs pushed into position bolts are inserted through the frame and bushes.

The bolts are secured with nuts; both suspensions springs are now in position.

The axle is now installed with "U" bolts through to the bottom plate.

The nuts are tightened evenly to a certain torque.

With the help from a couple of mates the trailer is flipped right side up and a coat of paint applied.

This pic shows the axle and suspension in place, I also positioned the cradle trough on the trailer beams in preparation for the rubber fittings and the securing fittings.

I secured the cradle to the trailer frame in two ways; Firstly, I bolted the cradle base through the trailer center beam and secondly, I located several "U" clamps under the trailer center beam and screwed into the side of the cradle. Then I glued carpet to the interior base and sides of the cradle.

This pic shows the carpet covered in the cradle and the rear roller.

Now with the boat loaded on the trailer for the move to a new workshop I needed to install the side supports.

I decided to make the supports from timber. After levelling the trailer and the boat on the trailer I bolted uprights and cross supports to the trailer.

The timbers required some rebating to fit neatly and squarely.

The finished cradles were very strong and supported the boat under the bulkheads.

Now I have to remove, seal with epoxy, paint and cover the top arms with marine grade carpet. 

Compass Installation.

 

Taking advantage of the Black Friday sales, I purchased a SILVA brand bulkhead compass (Model 70P). I also purchased the lighting kit.

I have previously ran a NAV light wire through to BH 2 see the "Electricals" Post dated Dec 29th 2023.

Using the supplied template, I cut an 85mm diam hole in BH2 and the four securing screw holes.

And here is the compass temporarily screwed in place.

Next, I need to build a thick timber backing block to protect and insulate the compass from the cabin area and reduce any magnetic or electrical interference which can cause deviation.

The dimensions are drawn onto 2 pieces of 20mm thick scrap timbers.

The first block is cut out all the way through, and the second block is routed out with a chisel and burring tool.

When joined together the round rear ball of the compass will fit neatly in the hollowed section.

The two sections are glued together and held in place with weights.

Routed, sanded and the first coat of epoxy.

After 3 coats of epoxy and 5 coats of Aquacote the backing block is epoxied in place. Inside cabin view.........

........and a view from the cockpit.