Trailer

 

I was fortunate enough to find a secondhand trailer the perfect size to fit my PocketShip.

 It requires a bit of work including a few modifications & additions, some minor surface rust removal, bearing service (or replacement) and a paint job, nothing like another project.

I made a list of the jobs:

1. Strip all the old rollers, stabilizers and mudguards.
2. Grind off surface rust and treat areas with "Feronite" (a rust converter and primer).
3. Service and/or replace bearings.
4. Trial fit the keel cradle, side stabilizers and rear rollers then treat all the drilled holes.
5. Install removable light bar.
6. Install new mudguards.
7. Paint trailer.
8. I'll leave the winch and forward support installation until the boat is on. Plus, any other tie down supports.

I started by placing the trailer next to the boat (while it was upright in its cradle) This allowed me to firstly work out the keel cradle location and size and secondly ensure the boat was positioned far enough aft so that the bowsprit won't hit the car when trailing.

Let's kick off with making the "Trough" for the keel to slide into.

 

I purchased three lengths of hardwood decking timber 20mm x 95mm x 3200mm long and milled the lower piece down to 75mm wide.

The 3 pieces are glued and screwed together to form the box section for the keel.

The bottom of the cradle receives a coat of resin a fillet and a layer of biaxial glass for strength.

While waiting for the epoxy to cure on the cradle I started removing the old rollers and brackets from the trailer. Some parts were so old and rusty I had to cut off with an angle grinder.

All the remaining rollers and their supports have been removed. The flaky rust has been scraped off and wire buffed down to bare metal. Before applying a rust preventive paint, I trial fitted the cradle and new mudguards.

 I decided to secure the cradle in two ways, firstly I bolted the fore and aft ends directly into the trailer beams and secondly, I screwed metal "U" shaped straps under the beam and into each side of the cradle and the beam.

Pictures to come..........

I also purchased a new roller to fit at aft end of the cradle and a new pin for the trailer tilt mechanism.

The wheels, bearings, axle, suspension and tilt mechanism are removed. Many of the bolts were rusted in place, the ones that didn't break had to be grinded off, messy job but now I have a clean palette to work on.

Compass Installation.

 

Taking advantage of the Black Friday sales, I purchased a SILVA brand bulkhead compass (Model 70P). I also purchased the lighting kit.

I have previously ran a NAV light wire through to BH 2 see the "Electricals" Post dated Dec 29th 2023.

Using the supplied template, I cut an 85mm diam hole in BH2 and the four securing screw holes.

And here is the compass temporarily screwed in place.

Next, I need to build a thick timber backing block to protect and insulate the compass from the cabin area and reduce any magnetic or electrical interference which can cause deviation.

The dimensions are drawn onto 2 pieces of 20mm thick scrap timbers.

The first block is cut out all the way through, and the second block is routed out with a chisel and burring tool.

When joined together the round rear ball of the compass will fit neatly in the hollowed section.

The two sections are glued together and held in place with weights.

Routed, sanded and the first coat of epoxy.

After 3 coats of epoxy and 5 coats of Aquacote the backing block is epoxied in place. Inside cabin view.........

........and a view from the cockpit.

Cabin Top Hardware

 Time to mark out and drill the holes for all the cabin top hardware. This will include the following:

1: Jib Sheet Lead.

2: Cheek Blocks and.....

3: Halyard Cleats.

I will also fix the tabernacle blocks.

I bolted the tabernacle in place and ran ropes from the tabernacle blocks through the cheek blocks (which I blue tacked to the cabin top) and through to the cleats.

Once I was happy with how the lines ran and ensuring minimum chaff to all ropes, I marked the hardware hole locations.

This pic shows the starboard holes marked and drilled.

 

And this pic shows the holes for the port halyards.

All the holes are filled with thickened epoxy and left for a few days to harden.

Next the tabernacle holes are drilled and...

...filled.

and after redrilling through the epoxy all the hardware is fitted.

Now it's time to drill through the hardened epoxy on the cabin top.

Note the three forward holes for the cheek blocks have access via the dorade box and the third hole will be a 40 mm long screw directly into the BH. (The hole nearest the drain of the cabin hood is a temporary hole for a locating jig that lines the cabin hood in place, this hole will be filled later.

I made SS backing plates for the halyard cleats and the jib leads. These will be located inside the cabin top. Here I'm cutting out the SS backing plates for the halyard cleats. Easy work with a good quality hacksaw blade although it would have been quicker with a cutting disc on my angle grinder.

After cutting out and shaping on a bench grinder they are polished to a lovely shine. 

And here are all the cabin top hardware including the nuts, bolts, washers, screws and backing plates.

Boarding Ladder

 I received an email from our local marine store with a great deal on a stainless-steel four step folding transom boarding ladder.

Here is a pic of the ladder folded from the catalog.

And this pic shows the ladder extended.

Prior to installing I needed to ensure the following: 

• It must not interfere with the full rotation of the rudder.
• When folded the lowest part of ladder is above the waterline.
• When fully extended the lower step is sufficiently below the waterline but not below the lowest point of the rudder or keel to allow easy access when climbing aboard and not hit the ground when beach anchoring.
• The fully extended ladder must be at 90 degrees to the water line and not follow the angle of the transom.

Firstly, I re-installed the rudder and levelled the boat to the waterline.

Next the ladder was temporarily positioned and held in place with clamps.

Using a spirit level I adjusted the ladder to ensure it was vertically and horizontally level.

I clamped a piece of scrap to hold the ladder away from the transom into a vertical position. Measurements were taken to extend the horizontal supports to ensure the ladder is completely vertical and at 90 degrees to the ocean.

Now it was time to ensure the location didn't interfere with the full rotation of the rudder.

It required a few adjustments with the ladder in the folded and extended positions to ensure the correct location. 

Larger holes are drilled then filled with thickened epoxy and redrilled for the fixing bolts.

As can be seen in this pic the horizontal legs that hold the ladder out from the transom were too short to maintain the correct vertical position. So, some alterations will be required.

The ladder was made from 22mm diameter tubing which is the same as handrail tubing. So, it's off to the local marine store to spend some money. The tubing was good quality 316 Stainless steel and came in 2m lengths. After careful measurement two pieces were cut and holes drilled in the end for the securing bolt. I inserted the handle of an old screwdriver into the end of the tube to support and prevent the tubing being squashed when drilling the holes.

The longer horizontal legs were installed. To ensure they sit securely on the transom and provide maximum strength I laminated some scrap and drilled holes a little larger than the tubing. This pic shows the angle required to allow the tubing to fit neatly into the hole.

 

The piece is screwed into the transom.

This pic shows the legs inserted into the transom support.

Lastly, I made two stainless-steel backing plates and secured the unit with spring washers and dome nuts. The inner backing plate required bending to fit over the fillet. 

Now it all comes off until the transom is glassed and lacquered.

Sea Hood continued

 The sea hood construction was covered in July's 2024 post named "Companionway Hood".

I still had a bit of work to finish the sea hood before installing the solar panel.

The first job was to plug the screw holes. I made 6mm diam plugs from blue gum and epoxied them in place.

I gave the epoxy glueing in the plugs a couple of days to set hard before cleaning up and sanding down smooth. 

BUT I had no fiberglass cloth in stock so it's off to the local marine store.

 With a newly purchased roll of 6oz/200gms of fiberglass cloth I glassed the top of the sea hood and covered it with peel ply. On a side note, I also purchased a cast iron frying pan (seen on bench in pic), it will not only cook meat & fish to perfection (in my opinion) but when stored under the floorboards will provide ballast....bloody bargain haha.

Preparation of tabbing cloth and peel ply for all the underside fillets. This will strengthen the sea hood.

Fillets applied in all corners, fibreglass tabbing cloth and peel ply applied while all resin still wet. 

With three coats of epoxy with non-yellowing hardener the sea hood is ready for lacquer.

Same with the slide, ready for lacquer.

The sea hood, sea hood slide and companionway drop board retainers are prepared for lacquering.

After six coats of Aqua-Cote polyurethane she shines like a mirror. It's a shame the majority of the top will be covered with a solar panel.