Mast build

 Time to mill up some Queensland Hoop pine. This timber is straight grained and has no knots making it perfect for the mast.

I was fortunate enough to have a 5m length of timber thus eliminating the need to scarf timbers.

With my trusty triton workbench saw I milled up the 4 staves.

The two fore & aft staves measuring18mm x 57mm x 4877mm were cut slightly oversize. Then the two side staves measuring 18mm x 76mm x 4877mm were cut. The four sections were put through a thicknesser to clean up to the correct thickness.

Time to mark out the curves on the staves using the full-size drawings on page 3.

I started with the 18mm x 57mm fore & aft staves. The distances for the widths were plotted and two cut lines drawn along the length.

I used a circular saw to cut the shape and cleaned up to the line with a hand plane. 

The same method was used for the 18mm x 76mm side staves however the taper is only on the forward edge as the aft edge is straight.

Using the bench saw I cut the first notches for the rabbets that secure the fore & aft staves. The saw blade was 9mm above the bench and 18 mm out from the fence. The second cut was 18 mm above the bench and 9mm out from the fence.

Careful measurements are required to ensure the width of the saw blade is included. 

 

This shot shows the rabbets or notches, the two outside staves are the mast sides, and the two insides are the fore & aft staves, this is a bottom view.

And this is a top view. 

Boom Hardware fitted to Tabernacle

 

The gooseneck location is marked on the tabernacle and oversized holes drilled.

The underside is covered with sticky tape and the holes filled with thickened epoxy.

The holes are drilled and countersunk for the securing screw heads ensuring a flush surface on the inside of the tabernacle. 

Boom Build

 The Boom will also be made from Queensland Hoop pine. Unfortunately, I didn't have a stock piece thick enough so armed with my trusty Triton bench saw and thicknesser I set about making some dust.

I laminated two pieces together which is a bit more labor, but I think a laminated boom is stronger.

The timbers are ripped down to size. 

I left a few extra mm in thickness which will be removed after the laminate is cured.

The two sections are glued together.

I used lots of clamps and an old, laminated beam to ensure the boom dries nice and straight.

  

The laminated boom is cleaned up and

using a Japanese saw I tapered the aft 381mm down to 38mm.

Another view.......

As the manual suggests the tapered end saves a little weight and looks good.

I followed my theme and decided to add two inserts along each side of the boom.

 

I marked up for two 6mm wide grooves to be routed along both sides of the boom allowing for the 10mm edge roundover routed later.

You can see the router bit and a side fence set up on my small handheld router.

 

Here are the two routed grooves 2mm deep along the length of the boom.

A thin 6mm X 3mm length of blue gum is shaped to fit the groove.

The two strips are trial fitted; the dark red colored blue gum strips will look nice against the light-colored hoop pine. 

The strips are epoxied in place.

Lots of clamps hold the strips in place until the glue dries.

The clamps are removed and the Bluegum inserts sanded down with a belt sander.

Another view.......

Another view forward end of boom.

After a trip to the local hardware to purchase a 10mm radius round over router bit I set to work making dust.

With the round over routing complete I cleaned up by hand sanding.

A 12mm hole is drilled into the forward end of the boom for the gooseneck pin

The boom and gaff are given their first coat of epoxy, I am using non-yellowing hardener on all the spars.

To reduce wear and make a firmer fit for the gooseneck I decided to add a stainless-steel (SS) plate into the forward section of the boom.

I routed a recess for the plate to be screwed in place.

A small square was cut from a sheet of SS.

A plywood template was used to outline the shape cut from the SS sheet.

Holes were drilled for the gooseneck pin and countersunk screws.

This pic shows the plate screwed in place and the gooseneck in situ.

Gaff build

 Time to create some dust...again.

The Gaff or Yard whatever you like to call it will be made from Queensland hoop pine. Beautiful light-colored timber straight grained and no knots.

I was lucky that the stock piece I purchased was the exact thickness so all I had to do was cut it to length and shape.

A batten is bent in place over the measured marks and a pencil line drawn.

A small circular saw easily cuts along the curve.

The timber planks on the floor to the left of this pic is for the mast and boom.

The curve is cleaned up with a belt sander that I fixed to a bench.

The edges are routed and the complete unit sanded smooth.

Using a level the gaff is set up on a drill press. Larger diameter holes are drilled to fill and re-drill for the Racelight Gooseneck.

Same for the eyestrap holes that will support the block.

And lastly the hole on the aft end that lashes the head of the main sail.

Well, I couldn't help myself, after seeing how the blue gum inserts looked on the boom, I decided to include them on either side of the gaff.....more work.

So out with the router and in with some blue gum inserts. Here they are clamped in place until the epoxy sets.

Clamps off and time to clean up, I used a handheld belt sander followed by an orbital sander and finished off by hand sanding.

Here is the gaff and boom after receiving their first coat of non-yellowing epoxy.

Fitting the Rudder

I decided to trial fit the rudder prior to flipping the boat. I remembered reading reports from other owners that indicated noisy rudders when at anchor.

I did some measurements and found the eyebolts were15mm internal diameter whereas the pivot rod was 12.5mm diameter. 

This resulted in a 2.5mm gap which I guess was causing the noise.

I did some shopping around at various shops that sell 316 SS eyebolts and found that "Anaconda" stocked eyebolts that were 13 mm internal diameter....perfect.

To further strengthen up the complete rudder setup I added an extra eyebolt pivot point between the existing two.

To reduce the friction and any further rattling between the heads of the stainless-steel eyebolts and the pivot rod I decided to add some washers made from "Starboard".

Using a 24mm inside diameter hole saw I partially drilled through the "Starboard".

This provided a centre hole location as a guide for....

..... a 12.5mm diameter drill (the same size as the pivot rod) was drilled all the way through. 

I then completed drilling with the hole saw to make 3 washer/plugs.

I marked the centre line of the 13mm thick plugs.

Using a band saw I cut the plugs in half to make 5 washers.

After a cleanup I trial fitted the washers on the pivot rod. They fitted perfectly.

This pic shows the washer on top of the eyebolt.

I plan to place a washer on the pivot rod between each eyebolt, one at the very top and one at very bottom and held secure with a split pin.

Hopefully this will prevent any movement and rattling which should eliminate noise at anchor but still provide a smooth movement of the rudder from side to side. 

A centre line is drawn on the transom and keel.

Next, I drilled holes slightly smaller than the eyebolt diameter. I Used a drill jig to ensure the holes are exactly 90 degrees. 

A block is placed under the keel and extends aft for the rudder to sit in place and keep it level with the bottom of the keel.

The lower two eyebolts are drilled and screwed into the keel and transom.

The upper eyebolt is screwed through the transom and secured with a large flat washer a spring split lock washer and a dome nut.

Measurements for the top rudder eyebolt are carefully marked allowing room for the "Starboard" washer.

The same procedure is repeated for the centre and lower eyebolts including the "Starboard" washers.

Finally, a hole is drilled through the pivot rod for a retaining spring.

The complete unit turned smoothly and was a nice tight fit.

Now I will remove it all in preparation for the flip.