Boarding Ladder

 I received an email from our local marine store with a great deal on a stainless-steel four step folding transom boarding ladder.

Here is a pic of the ladder folded from the catalog.

And this pic shows the ladder extended.

Prior to installing I needed to ensure the following: 

• It must not interfere with the full rotation of the rudder.
• When folded the lowest part of ladder is above the waterline.
• When fully extended the lower step is sufficiently below the waterline but not below the lowest point of the rudder or keel to allow easy access when climbing aboard and not hit the ground when beach anchoring.
• The fully extended ladder must be at 90 degrees to the water line and not follow the angle of the transom.

Firstly, I re-installed the rudder and levelled the boat to the waterline.

Next the ladder was temporarily positioned and held in place with clamps.

Using a spirit level I adjusted the ladder to ensure it was vertically and horizontally level.

I clamped a piece of scrap to hold the ladder away from the transom into a vertical position. Measurements were taken to extend the horizontal supports to ensure the ladder is completely vertical and at 90 degrees to the ocean.

Now it was time to ensure the location didn't interfere with the full rotation of the rudder.

It required a few adjustments with the ladder in the folded and extended positions to ensure the correct location. 

Larger holes are drilled then filled with thickened epoxy and redrilled for the fixing bolts.

As can be seen in this pic the horizontal legs that hold the ladder out from the transom were too short to maintain the correct vertical position. So, some alterations will be required.

The ladder was made from 22mm diameter tubing which is the same as handrail tubing. So, it's off to the local marine store to spend some money. The tubing was good quality 316 Stainless steel and came in 2m lengths. After careful measurement two pieces were cut and holes drilled in the end for the securing bolt. I inserted the handle of an old screwdriver into the end of the tube to support and prevent the tubing being squashed when drilling the holes.

The longer horizontal legs were installed. To ensure they sit securely on the transom and provide maximum strength I laminated some scrap and drilled holes a little larger than the tubing. This pic shows the angle required to allow the tubing to fit neatly into the hole.

 

The piece is screwed into the transom.

This pic shows the legs inserted into the transom support.

Lastly, I made two stainless-steel backing plates and secured the unit with spring washers and dome nuts. The inner backing plate required bending to fit over the fillet. 

Now it all comes off until the transom is glassed and lacquered.