Compass Installation.

 

Taking advantage of the Black Friday sales, I purchased a SILVA brand bulkhead compass (Model 70P). I also purchased the lighting kit.

I have previously ran a NAV light wire through to BH 2 see the "Electricals" Post dated Dec 29th 2023.

Using the supplied template, I cut an 85mm diam hole in BH2 and the four securing screw holes.

And here is the compass temporarily screwed in place.

Next, I need to build a thick timber backing block to protect and insulate the compass from the cabin area and reduce any magnetic or electrical interference which can cause deviation.

The dimensions are drawn onto 2 pieces of 20mm thick scrap timbers.

The first block is cut out all the way through, and the second block is routed out with a chisel and burring tool.

When joined together the round rear ball of the compass will fit neatly in the hollowed section.

The two sections are glued together and held in place with weights.

Routed, sanded and the first coat of epoxy.

After 3 coats of epoxy and 5 coats of Aquacote the backing block is epoxied in place. Inside cabin view.........

........and a view from the cockpit.

Cabin Top Hardware

 Time to mark out and drill the holes for all the cabin top hardware. This will include the following:

1: Jib Sheet Lead.

2: Cheek Blocks and.....

3: Halyard Cleats.

I will also fix the tabernacle blocks.

I bolted the tabernacle in place and ran ropes from the tabernacle blocks through the cheek blocks (which I blue tacked to the cabin top) and through to the cleats.

Once I was happy with how the lines ran and ensuring minimum chaff to all ropes, I marked the hardware hole locations.

This pic shows the starboard holes marked and drilled.

 

And this pic shows the holes for the port halyards.

All the holes are filled with thickened epoxy and left for a few days to harden.

Next the tabernacle holes are drilled and...

...filled.

and after redrilling through the epoxy all the hardware is fitted.

Now it's time to drill through the hardened epoxy on the cabin top.

Note the three forward holes for the cheek blocks have access via the dorade box and the third hole will be a 40 mm long screw directly into the BH. (The hole nearest the drain of the cabin hood is a temporary hole for a locating jig that lines the cabin hood in place, this hole will be filled later.

I made SS backing plates for the halyard cleats and the jib leads. These will be located inside the cabin top. Here I'm cutting out the SS backing plates for the halyard cleats. Easy work with a good quality hacksaw blade although it would have been quicker with a cutting disc on my angle grinder.

After cutting out and shaping on a bench grinder they are polished to a lovely shine. 

And here are all the cabin top hardware including the nuts, bolts, washers, screws and backing plates.