Boom Build

 The Boom will also be made from Queensland Hoop pine. Unfortunately, I didn't have a stock piece thick enough so armed with my trusty Triton bench saw and thicknesser I set about making some dust.

I have to laminate two pieces together which is a bit more labor, but I think a laminated boom is stronger.

The timbers are ripped down to size. 

I left a few extra mm in thickness which will be removed after the laminate is cured.

The two sections are glued together.

I used lots of clamps and an old, laminated beam to ensure the boom dries nice and straight.

  

The laminated boom is cleaned up and

using a Japanese saw I tapered the aft 381mm down to 38mm.

Another view.......

As the manual suggests the tapered end saves a little weight and looks good.

I followed my theme and decided to add two inserts along each side of the boom.

 

I marked up for two 6mm wide grooves to be routed along both sides of the boom allowing for the 10mm edge roundover routed later.

You can see the router bit and a side fence set up on my small handheld router.

 

Here are the two routed grooves 2mm deep along the length of the boom.

A thin 6mm X 3mm length of blue gum is shaped to fit the groove.

The two strips are trial fitted; the dark red colored blue gum strips will look nice against the light-colored hoop pine. 

The strips are epoxied in place.

Lots of clamps hold the strips in place until the glue dries.

The clamps are removed and the Bluegum inserts sanded down with a belt sander.

Another view.......

Another view forward end of boom.

After a trip to the local hardware to purchase a 10mm radius round over router bit I set to work making dust.

With the round over routing complete I cleaned up by hand sanding.

Gaff build

 Time to create some dust...again.

The Gaff or Yard whatever you like to call it will be made from Queensland hoop pine. Beautiful light-colored timber straight grained and no knots.

I was lucky that the stock piece I purchased was the exact thickness so all I had to do was cut it to length and shape.

A batten is bent in place over the measured marks and a pencil line drawn.

A small circular saw easily cuts along the curve.

The timber planks on the floor to the left of this pic is for the mast and boom.

The curve is cleaned up with a belt sander that I fixed to a bench.

The edges are routed and the complete unit sanded smooth.

Using a level the gaff is set up on a drill press. Larger diameter holes are drilled to fit the Racelight Gooseneck.

Next the holes for an eyestrap that will support the block.

And lastly the hole on the aft end that lashes the head of the main sail.

Fitting the Rudder

I decided to trial fit the rudder prior to flipping the boat. I remembered reading reports from other owners that indicated noisy rudders when at anchor.

I did some measurements and found the eyebolts were15mm internal diameter whereas the pivot rod was 12.5mm diameter. 

This resulted in a 2.5mm gap which I guess was causing the noise.

I did some shopping around at various shops that sell 316 SS eyebolts and found that "Anaconda" stocked eyebolts that were 13 mm internal diameter....perfect.

To further strengthen up the complete rudder setup I added an extra eyebolt pivot point between the existing two.

To reduce the friction and any further rattling between the heads of the stainless-steel eyebolts and the pivot rod I decided to add some washers made from "Starboard".

Using a 24mm inside diameter hole saw I partially drilled through the "Starboard".

This provided a centre hole location as a guide for....

..... a 12.5mm diameter drill (the same size as the pivot rod) was drilled all the way through. 

I then completed drilling with the hole saw to make 3 washer/plugs.

I marked the centre line of the 13mm thick plugs.

Using a band saw I cut the plugs in half to make 5 washers.

After a cleanup I trial fitted the washers on the pivot rod. They fitted perfectly.

This pic shows the washer on top of the eyebolt.

I plan to place a washer on the pivot rod between each eyebolt, one at the very top and one at very bottom and held secure with a split pin.

Hopefully this will prevent any movement and rattling which should eliminate noise at anchor but still provide a smooth movement of the rudder from side to side. 

A centre line is drawn on the transom and keel.

Next, I drilled holes slightly smaller than the eyebolt diameter. I Used a drill jig to ensure the holes are exactly 90 degrees. 

A block is placed under the keel and extends aft for the rudder to sit in place and keep it level with the bottom of the keel.

The lower two eyebolts are drilled and screwed into the keel and transom.

The upper eyebolt is screwed through the transom and secured with a large flat washer a spring split lock washer and a dome nut.

Measurements for the top rudder eyebolt are carefully marked allowing room for the "Starboard" washer.

The same procedure is repeated for the centre and lower eyebolts including the "Starboard" washers.

Finally, a hole is drilled through the pivot rod for a retaining spring.

The complete unit turned smoothly and was a nice tight fit.

Now I will remove it all in preparation for the flip.

Floorboard Update

In preparation for the flip and to reduce a bit of weight I removed the six hinged floorboard access sections. You will notice from the pic that I decided to install access hatches along the complete length of the cabin floor from BH 2 to BH 7.

 Whilst removed and on a bench, I realised I hadn't completed a couple of things.

 Firstly: 

I installed some spring-loaded latches to secure the access hatches in a closed position no matter what the angle of the boat.

Unfortunately, when operating the latches through the finger hole from above the end would turn flat and made it difficult to get enough purchase to push completely open.

  

So, to remedy this issue I milled up small timber blocks and glued either side of the latch. This prevented it turning.....problem solved. 

Note: This is the underside of the hatches.

 

This pic shows the spring-loaded latch screwed in place. It freely slides along the timber blocks and the upturned end remains upright between the blocks.

Next the decorative Teak ring install.

Flip Preperation

 I have been very busy lately catching up on house maintenance and subsequently spending minimal time boatbuilding.

But now I have caught up on the house it's time to get back to my little yacht. 

Now all the upper areas are fully glassed I only have to apply two more coats of resin and then it's time to flip the boat.

Initially I was intending to flip the boat and locate it upside down on the trailer BUT after a few calculations I realized this would make the height too high and difficult to glass.

So, plan B...........

I will construct two makeshift cradles or frames connected to the boat that will support it closer to the ground and be level horizontally and vertically but still allow minor adjustments to level exactly.

The frames will have a lower flat area where I can place four 4 wheeled moving Dollys in each corner to allow me to move the boat around the workshop. Each Dolly has a carrying capacity of 200 kgs.

The aft frame is constructed from scrap timber. It is screwed into seat back tops where the blocking timbers are located.

The frame is 50mm higher than the cabin top, this will ensure when the boat is upside down and level the cabin top is off the floor.

The middle post of the forward cradle/frame is screwed to BH 2 from inside the cabin at the same points that the tabernacle is secured.

The outer edges are screwed down to the cabin top into BH 2. This will distribute the weight evenly and securely.

 

Tabernacle update

 After reading other PocketShip posts & blogs I decided to make my tabernacle removable. This decision is mainly based on the height when on the trailer and ability to be garaged. I will also need to consider making the boom gallows removable, (I'll have to give that some more thought).

I previously beefed up BH 2 by glassing both the fore & aft sides and then adding an additional 9mm decorative section and a larger shaped cleat to the aft side. (see Feb 4th, 2024, post)

I previously drilled two recessed holes through the tabernacle into BH 2. (see August 2024 post) this was when I intended to permanently secure the tabernacle to BH 2. So now I am making it removable I will need to do the following:

 

 Firstly, I added an 18mm block to the base of the tabernacle. It sits between the two sides, flush with the bottom and has an aft gap to allow water to drain. This stiffens the tabernacle considerably as well as maintaining the correct internal width.

Next, I drilled a third recessed hole for another hex head bolt that will secure the tabernacle to the beefed-up section of BH 2. The three bolts will be secured by a decorative dome nut and spring washer. 

To prevent the hex bolts spinning when tightening the dome nuts, I filled the recess with lightly thicken epoxy. This involved covering the hex heads and shafts with sticky tape and tightly screwing them in place while filling the recess with epoxy. The tape will allow removal of the bolts but still give a tight fit for the hex heads.

To ensure the tabernacle and bowsprit locate in the exact place for the securing bolts I decided to install some laminated locating timbers.

 Timber strips are milled up.

I followed my theme using hoop pine and blue gum laminated together.

The laminations are glued and held with clamps.

The strips are cut to size the edges routed and sanded smooth. The screw holes are drilled and countersunk.

Three coats of epoxy and several coats of polyurethane.

The tabernacle is bolted in place and each locating piece is screwed hard up against the tabernacle.

This shot shows the locating timbers strips which ensure the tabernacle sits perfectly for the securing bolts through the BH.

To strengthen the three SS bolt holes and prevent water ingress to the tabernacle and BH 2 I re-drilled larger diameter holes, epoxy filled and re-drilled.